Taste of Napoli: The Sacred Neapolitan Cuisine – Pizza, Mozzarella, and Neapolitan Delicacies

Pizza and Mozzarella are the two proudly Neapolitan products, and they are sacred to Neapolitans. So, do not ask for pizza with pineapple or put Mozzarella in the fridge, and even refrain from mentioning it if you don’t want to break – but really break – the heart of a Neapolitan.

Pizza and Mozzarella are the two proudly Neapolitan products, and they are sacred to Neapolitans. So, do not ask for pizza with pineapple or put Mozzarella in the fridge, and even refrain from mentioning it if you don’t want to break – but really break – the heart of a Neapolitan.

These culinary treasures are more than just food in Naples; they’re cultural institutions that have been perfected over generations. The locals approach their cuisine with a passion and dedication that borders on religious devotion. Before getting deeper into Naples’ gastronomic wonders, remember this golden rule: respect the traditions!

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Naples’ Iconic Pizza

Pizza is eaten in Naples, in fact, true pizza is only eaten in Naples. Because this is the birthplace of pizza. The first pizzas were apparently fried and made and sold on the streets. The people of Naples, who were abandoned to their fate with the unification of Italy in 1860, were not very supportive of this unification. But when the king announced that he would finally visit Naples, a Neapolitan who wanted to show his happiness made the first pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven, dedicated to Queen Margherita, using the colors of the new flag of Italy. That Neapolitan is called Raffaele Esposito and his Pizzeria Brandi is still open and serving in Via Chiaia.

Insider Tip: If you want to directly go to the famous pizzerias of the historical center, that’s fine, but make sure to stop by Pizzeria Brandi and take a photo in front of the marble inscription on its wall, that says ‘pizza was first born here.

You find pizza anywhere in the world, to show they are good pizza generally they name after Napoli. We have seen allover the world Pizzeria Napoli’s from Sapa, Vietnam to Puerto Natales in Chile. But is the name of the restaurant enough to decide if it is a real Neapolitan Pizza? Actually, no. But there is a way to understand if your pizza is truely Neapolitan, even if it is at the edge of the World. 

There is an authority since 1984 who can tell if your pizza is good! Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana which means True Neapolitan Pizza Association. 

You can safely eat pizza at pizzerias that have the symbol of this association.

The association also gives advance courses for pizza as well as touristical courses and organizes half-day pizza tasting tours .

Naples’ Most Beloved Pizzerias by locals: 

The ones located in the historical center of Naples: 

  • Sorbillo or Antica Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo.  A must-try in the historical center, always with a big queue. No reservations accepted—just go there, write your name, and wait on the road with other people socializing while drinking an Aperol Spritz conveniently located just in front.  Sorbillo Family is huge and almost all the brothers and cousins are in pizza business, so there are lots of Sorbillos in the city, this one I recommend is located in Via dei Tribunali 32.
  • L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – The “Eat” part of Julia Roberts‘ “Eat Pray Love” was filmed here. This is one of the unsurpassable and inimitable pizzerias, always very economical. You need to be a little clever to enter without waiting—go outside the peak hours, in the afternoon around 5 pm you can enter without waiting. Morning queues -for lunch- start forming around 10:30 am! They serve only 2 pizza types: Margherita (with cheese) and Marinara (without).
  • Pizzeria Dal Presidente – Good pizza assured, and almost always a table available. There’s a whole floor below the small entrance that will likely offer you a seat.
  • Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo – You will notice this place from the queues, most of them are for take away. The pizza is very good and economical. Try their fried pizza, one of the best in Naples. 
  • Figlia del Presidente – The owner is a strong woman following her father’s tradition, who has expanded as far as Busan, Korea! Her fried pizza is the strongest in town.
  • Starita – Hidden in the Materdei quarter of Naples, this pizzeria has many devoted fans. Better reserve a seat before going. Their special pizza Genovese with overcooked onions is exceptional.
The picture of a pizza, Signature Pizza by Pepe in Grani
Signature Pizza by Pepe in Grani

Pizza al Metro: The Meter-Long Experience

Local Specialty: Pizza al Metro means pizza coming in meters! It was invented in Vico Equense at “Università della Pizza” (also called “Da Gigino Pizza a Metro”). Now it’s possible to find this style in some neighborhood takeaway pizzerias. A group of indecisive people will certainly enjoy this option—you can order different toppings on different sections of the same long pizza, letting everyone taste their favorite style!

Pizza Metro invented by Università della Pizza in Vico Equense, near Sorrento
Pizza Metro invented by Università della Pizza in Vico Equense, near Sorrento

 

The Best Ones according to many – Outside the historical center area:

50 Kalo Together with Diego Vitagliano and Masaniello, it’s one of the Top 50 pizza winners in the world. Located in the Mergellina area in Naples, as well as London 

Diego Vitagliano – A favorite for the last 5 years or more, consistently ranking among the top positions in the World’s 50 Best Pizzas list. You will most probably visit the one in Via Santa Lucia but the original place is outside the city center in Bagnoli.

Sfogliatella: Riccia or Frolla?

For Upscale and Niche Pizza Experiences

For those willing to venture beyond the city center for exceptional pizza experiences:

    • Pepe in Grani – Located in Caiazzo, Caserta (about 1 hour from Naples by car with no public transportation). Worth the journey for pizza connoisseurs.
    • Concettina Tre Santi – Applies pan-fried pizza concepts in the traditional neighborhood of Sanità. Reservations are essential during peak hours.
    • Palazzo Petrucci – Enjoy quality pizza in front of the obelisk at Piazza San Domenico Maggiore (read about this square’s fascinating legend in my “Naples in 1 Day” post).
    • I Masanielli- Not in Naples but in Caserta, conveniently located just in front of the Reggia di Caserta royal palace. Perfect for a pizza tasting experience, but reservations are required and it’s very difficult to secure a table.
The picture of the entrance of Pizzeria Palazzo Petrucci in the hearth of the historical center
Pizzeria Palazzo Petrucci in the hearth of the historical center
The picture of the street entrance of Concettina Ai Tre Santi Pizzeria in Naples City Sanita neighborhood
Concettina Ai Tre Santi
Famous Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, long queues increased after Eat, Pray, Love
Famous Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, long queues increased after Eat, Pray, Love

Authentic Neapolitan Mozzarella

If you think you have eaten a lot of mozzarella in your life, but you have never been to Naples, this cannot be true. Even when you are a bit away from Naples, you cannot find the same mozzarella quality.

This is the case in most parts of Italy, where regional delicacies are best enjoyed locally. In Naples, mozzarella is sold in its own brine and eaten at room temperature within 2 days.

There are two well-known zones for mozzarella production. One is Battipaglia in Salerno, and the other is in the Caserta/Capua area. The latter tends to be saltier, while the former has a more delicate taste.

Must Visit:  At the Tenuto Vannullo, one of the finest buffalo farms in Battlipaglia zone, you can see the production of mozzarella and thank the buffaloes for their hard work and love. You can also taste their amazing yogurt and ice cream made from buffalo milk.

Sweet Temptations: Neapolitan Desserts

Graffa

If Americans have donuts, then Neapolitans have graffa. Graffa is consumed for breakfast in Italy and cannot be found in other cities. When you fill Graffa with Nutella, they change its name to “bomba” and sell it.

 

A sugar-coated Neapolitan graffa on a plate, resembling a donut, golden and soft with a fluffy texture.
Graffa – Naples’ answer to the donut, soft, warm, and dusted with sugar

Sfogliatella

Neapolitans are passionately divided into two: those who love the Sfogliatella Riccia and those who prefer the Sfogliatella Frolla. Riccia, meaning “curly,” is the original version—crispy, layered, and iconic. Frolla, made with soft shortcrust pastry, is a more modern take on the classic. Personally, I usually go for the Riccia, but when I visit Pasticceria Madonna, I always choose the Frolla. Try both and see which Neapolitan pastry wins your heart!

A round Sfogliatella Frolla pastry with a smooth golden crust, lightly dusted with powdered sugar.
Sfogliatella Frolla – Soft outside, same delicious heart
A tender twist on the classic: Sfogliatella Frolla trades crisp layers for buttery shortcrust, while keeping the same beloved ricotta filling inside.
A golden, flaky Sfogliatella Riccia pastry with visible crisp layers, dusted with powdered sugar.
Sfogliatella Riccia – The crispy queen of Neapolitan pastries

Best places to eat Sfogliatella:

Sfogliatella: Riccia or Frolla?

Babà

Although nowhere explicitly mentions its origin from Turkish desserts, could it be a coincidence that it is made in the shape of a pier and called “baba,” which is similar to Turkish desserts? It is different only as it has rum in it.

A glistening Neapolitan babà pastry on a dessert plate, soaked in rum and garnished with a touch of whipped cream.
Babà – The iconic Neapolitan pastry soaked in tradition (and rum!)
Funny and creative, Baba with the colours of Naples soccer team

 

Delizia al Limone (Lemon Delight)

Capri Island, Sorrento, and Amalfi are filled with lemon trees. They don’t only make limoncello with these lemons but also a dessert called “delizia del limone” with lemon cream and light pastry.

Ricotta e Pera (Ricotta and Pear Dessert)

Although it may seem like an old dessert to most Neapolitans, the Ricotta e Pera dessert was invented by a pastry chef from the Amalfi Coast in the late 1990s. It consists of fresh ricotta cheese, pear, and a crumbly biscuit-like dough.

Fiocco di Neve (Snowflakes)

This dessert was first made in 2005 in Sanità, one of Naples’ oldest and once most dangerous neighborhoods. It gained fame thanks to the legendary long queues in front of the bakery. It has a delicate brioche dough and a creamy ricotta filling that melts in your mouth like a snowflake.

Famous Snowflakes
Pasticceria Poppella, where snow flakes invented.

Seasonal Specialties

Neapolitans, who are attached to their traditions, have always crowned each special occasion throughout history with a specific menu.

Christmas Specialties

Even though not every Neapolitan’s stomach agrees with it, according to tradition, on Christmas Eve, the “capitone” or snakefish must be eaten. This fish, with its reptile-like appearance, represents the snake and therefore the devil. It is fried in pieces and consumed on Christmas Eve to prevent any evil from entering the house.

Struffoli:

During the Christmas season, Neapolitan mothers cut and roll small pieces of dough, fry them, coat them in honey, and decorate them with colorful sugar and candy.

 

Struffoli – A Christmas dessert – this one is made by my mother-in-law

Carnival Season

During the Carnival season, which is in the month of February, “chiacchere” or crispy fried or oven-baked pastries, sprinkled with powdered sugar and served with chocolate sauce, are sold. The original name of this chocolate sauce is “sanguinaccia,” meaning “made from blood.” In the past, pig’s blood was added to the chocolate to give it texture and flavor. Don’t worry, though, because after joining the European Union, the addition of pig’s blood was banned.

Easter Traditions

Pastiera:

This delicious and nutritious cake, with the aroma of orange blossom, is traditionally associated with Easter but is now available year-round due to its popularity.

Throughout the Easter period, in addition to the famous pastiera dessert, another must-have is “Casatiello,” a savory cake rich in fat, black pepper, cheese, ham, and decorated with whole eggs baked in their shells.

 

The picture of a pastiera and a cup of coffee in Naples, Italy
Pastiera and coffee. Pastiera is the only seasonal dessert that can be found also out of season.

Father’s Day

Zeppole di San Giuseppe:

It is the Father’s Day dessert in Italy. It comes in two variations: fluffy fried dough topped with homemade yellow cream and cherries or baked dough, and it is only eaten on March 19th and its accompanying week.

A close-up of Zeppole di San Giuseppe, traditional Neapolitan pastries filled with custard and topped with powdered sugar and a cherry.
Zeppole di San Giuseppe – A sweet tradition for Father’s Day (occurs in Italy and the Catholic world on March 19th, the feast of Saint Joseph)

 

Famous Neapolitan Dishes

Zeppole

Small round fried dough balls with hidden seaweed particles, served as an antipasto.

Parmigiana di Melenzana

This is one of the favorite dish, unrelated to Parmesan cheese, is made by layering fried eggplants and smoked mozzarella or provola cheese, then baking it with tomato sauce. It is usually served as an appetizer, or antipasto.

Ragù Napoletana

On Sundays, 90% of families gathering for lunch in Naples have pasta made with Ragu sauce. Ragu sauce is cooked for hours with minced meat in a tomato base. Due to the long cooking time, the tomato sauce turns dark brown, and the meat becomes tender enough to melt in the mouth. Thrifty Italians serve the sauce as the main course with pasta and the meat as a second course, killing two birds with one stone.

Scialatielli ai Frutti di Mare

This dish, which you can find in almost every restaurant, is made with homemade fresh pasta. The sauce is made by cooking seafood, such as clams, mussels, and shrimp, with tomatoes.

Linguine con frutti di mare, Sea food dish with linguine - a dry pasta alternative to the scialatielli
Linguine con frutti di mare, Sea food dish with linguine – a dry pasta alternative to the scialatielli

The Eating Habits of Neapolitans

Breakfast

Breakfast is not the most important meal of the day. In the mornings, they have coffee with a small pastry or biscuit as a sweet treat.

Example of a home breakfast: Toast with jam directly on top, biscuits dipped in milk and eaten.

Example of breakfast outside: Cornetto, brioche, graffa. Served with coffee or cappuccino.

Language Tip: If you ask for LATTE instead of coffee, they will bring you a nice glass of white milk. In Italian, latte means milk.

Meals are always and strictly separated and served in that order:

  1. Antipasto – appetizers, mezze, cheese, salami, ham plates, etc.
  2. Primo Piatto (First Course) – Pasta or risotto, all variations of carbohydrates as the main protagonist.
  3. Secondo Piatto (Second Course) – Protein dishes that do not contain pasta or rice. Fish, meat, chicken, etc.
  4. Contorno – Served alongside the 2nd course, includes salad, French fries, grilled vegetables, etc.

How can Neapolitans Keep Fit?

Despite having such delicious food, Neapolitans maintain healthy eating habits:

  • During lunchtime, they usually only have the 1st course, which is pasta or risotto. In the evenings, they have the 2nd course.
  • In Neapolitan kitchens, when cooking pasta, they ask the guests before putting it in the water: Are you hungry? How many grams would you like to have? They don’t cook all the pasta pack like the rest of the world do. A normal portion is considered to be around 80-100 grams. If you’re not very hungry, you can ask for 70 grams. If you’re very hungry, you can request 120 grams.
  • They try to have pizza once a week. On weekdays, they have it for lunch, and on weekends, they save it for Saturday evenings.
  • If they eat too much during the Sunday lunch gathering with family, they skip dinner.
  • During special events and weddings where a lot of food is consumed, the next day they hardly eat anything.

Neapolitan Coffee Culture

Standing, Tipping, and Etiquette

In Naples, coffee isn’t just a drink—it’s a ritual. Most Neapolitans drink espresso while standing at the bar. The process is simple: first, you pay at the cashier, then place your receipt on the counter. To keep it from flying away, you should put coins of  20–50 euro cents on top which will also serve as tip.

Before sipping your coffee, barman will offer you a glass of water to cleanse your palate. You drink the water first—never after the coffee—as you should preserve the pure taste of the espresso for a longer time.

And a fair warning: you’ll probably burn your lips if you sip your espresso immediately. That’s the Neapolitan standard—if the cup isn’t hot enough to sting your lips, it hasn’t been properly served. The heat is part of the ritual, preserving the crema and intensity of the coffee.

Some locals even prefer their espresso served in a small glass cup, believing it enhances the aroma and flavor. Do you want to try it the Neapolitan way?

 

A Cultural Tip for Coffee:

Before you leave, consider participating in the local tradition of the “caffè sospeso” (suspended coffee). This heartfelt custom lets you pay in advance for a second coffee, which will later be served to someone in need—a quiet yet powerful act of generosity that reflects the soul of Neapolitan hospitality.

If you prefer to sit, the rules are different: head straight to a table and wait to be served. Don’t bring your bar coffee to a table—the prices and service structure are distinct, and doing so may earn you a sharp glance or a gentle scolding.

🎶Coffee & Music :

There’s even a famous classic Neapolitan song about beloved coffee: In Neapolitan “’A tazz’ ‘e cafè”, which means “a cup of coffee” a romantic ode comparing a good espresso to the woman he loves. A masculin approach in my opinion but it is 1918 and actually a lovely song.  If you enjoy music—and especially Neapolitan songs—don’t miss my article Naples in One Day, a city itinerary where I pair iconic locations with the perfect Neapolitan song for each stop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRV7RAg5iyA

What Makes Neapolitan Cuisine So Special

Naples’ culinary traditions are deeply rooted in history, family, and passion. From the sacred art of pizza-making to the delicate craftsmanship of desserts, every bite tells a story of this vibrant city. When visiting Naples, remember that food isn’t just sustenance—it’s an expression of cultural identity and pride.

Respect the traditions, follow the local customs, and prepare your taste buds for an unforgettable journey through one of Italy’s most celebrated food destinations. Just remember: no pineapple on pizza, and keep that mozzarella out of the refrigerator!