Patagonia Chile: Complete Torres del Paine & Puerto Natales Travel Guide
Imagine finding yourself in front of a masterpiece of nature, where the snow-capped peaks are reflected in the turquoise lakes and meeting the wild guanacos roaming free in the Patagonian steppe becomes normal.
This is Torres del Paine National Park, a place where each curve takes your breath away more than the previous one. While very different from the otherworldly landscapes of Atacama Desert in northern Chile, Patagonia offers its own unforgettable natural wonders. It wasn’t easy to plan this trip and understand it from our readings so I would like to share with you all the essential advice we wish we had found before this unforgettable trip.
Table of Contents
Getting to Patagonia Chile
Flights to Chilean Patagonia:
We arrived in Chilean Patagonia from Santiago via a domestic flight of Latam. If you’re following our complete Chile itinerary, this southern adventure perfectly complements your time in vibrant Santiago. We wanted to arrive directly to Puerto Natales but the flights were full in spite of the high price and so instead we took Puerto Arenas flight.
Puerto Natales has a smaller airport and few flights compared to Puerto Arenas. Therefore if you would like to save on your flight you can opt for flying to Puerto Arenas, a larger city with more frequent and cheaper flights. From Puerto Arenas Airport there are frequent buses that take you directly to Puerto Natales.
Bus from Puerto Arenas to Puerto Natales:
In front of the departures gate of Puerto Arenas Airport you can take a bus to Puerto Natales. The scenic journey takes 3 hours and 15 minutes, the tickets cost around 8000 CLP (around 8USD/EUR) and the buses are quite comfortable.
We read online that bus tickets could only be purchased online, but we had trouble completing the online purchase. We were very stressed because this meant we would have to stay that night in Puerto Arenas, causing us to miss half a day in Puerto Natales and, of course, the first day in the park (our reservation was for that day). Fortunately, after several attempts, we managed to complete the online purchase.
Upon arriving at Puerto Arenas Airport, we realized there was no need to be stressed. When we asked the information desk about bus schedules and tickets, they informed us that we could also purchase them on the bus, but depending on availability. You can check the details of buses between Puerto Arenas and Puerto Natales in the picture below.
If you don’t want to risk and prefer to purchase your tickets online, here are the links for two main bus companies: BUS FERNANDEZ and BUS-SUR. Once you arrive to Puerto Natales, you can easily get a taxi or an Uber. We took a taxi at 3000 CLP. The night rate is 4.000 CLP from Puerto Natales Bus Station to the town center.
Weather in Torres del Paine
We visited Torres del Paine at the end of December, during the high season (around the Christmas vacations), so the weather was in its best condition. The first two days were amazing with clear sky, warm sun, refreshing Patagonian breeze. We felt so lucky as we knew the weather in Patagonia can be unpredictable. In fact, on the last day the sun disappeared, the breeze turned bitter, but fortunately the layers of clothes we brought worked fine.
Whatever is the season, it is really essential to wear all layered clothing. The climate here is dramatically different from the arid heat of Atacama or the mild climate of Easter Island, so pack accordingly. If you’re wondering about the weather of the time you will visit Torres del Paine, here’s what to expect in each season:
Summer (December – February) 🌞
- Weather: Mostly warm and sunny, but winds can become surprisingly strong.
- Pros: Photographs with clean skies, optimum hiking conditions, long daylight.
- Cons: This is the busiest season, hiking trails are crowded, lodges are fully booked and more expensive. You must plan and reserve your trip in advance!
Autumn (March – May) 🍂
- Weather: Unpredictable and chilly, with a mix of sun, rain, and occasional snow.
- Pros: Autumn colors, fewer tourists, so accommodation is more affordable and trails feel quieter.
- Cons: Shorter daylight and slippery trail conditions.
Winter (June – August) ❄️
- Weather: Cold, with frequent snowfall and shorter days.
- Pros: Snow-covered landscapes, solitude, wildlife spotting.
- Cons: Lowest tourist numbers; some lodges and trails close. The O Circuit is closed, and the W Trek requires a guide.
Spring (September – November) 🌸
- Weather: Highly unpredictable—expect sunshine, rain, wind, and even snow, all in one day.
- Crowds & Costs: Moderate, with fewer visitors than summer but increasing toward November.
When Should You Visit?
If you want the best weather and don’t mind crowds, summer is ideal. For a quieter, more colorful experience, autumn is fantastic. Winter is for the bold and adventurous, while spring offers beauty with a touch of unpredictability.
No matter when you visit, Patagonia’s wild and untamed beauty will leave you in awe—just be sure to pack layers!
Getting to Torres del Paine from Puerto Natales
Car Rental in Puerto Natales
A rental car is absolutely essential for exploring the region, but availability is limited. It is definitely better to book in advance due to high demand and limited supply. You may still find a last-minute car but it may not be the car you would prefer; like not automatic or too small or too big.
Even though we flew to Puerto Arenas we couldn’t find an available rental car ahead at the Puerto Arenas Airport so we booked online our car rental from RENTALCARS.
You do not need a SUV or big car to visit Torres del Paine National Park. The roads are in good condition, even the unpaved ones. The only exception is the Park’s exit from Lago Serrano. The road is full of potholes and you must really go slow to be able to avoid them. Other than that we had no issues.
Below you can see our small rental car which allowed us to visit every part of Torres del Paine National Park.
Bus to Torres del Paine from Puerto Natales
Most people arrive at the park from Puerto Natales very early by BUS SUR, which also operates inside the park. Each ride inside the Park costs about 3 USD/EUR. The W trek also involves a catamaran ride.
You need to leave your luggage at your hotel in Puerto Natales or at the bus station, as lockers in the park are subject to availability and require an additional charge.
Most people arrive at the park from Puerto Natales very early by BUS SUR, which also operates inside the park. Each ride inside the Park costs about 3USD/EUR. The W trek also involves a catamaran ride. You need to leave your luggage at your hotel in Puerto Natales or at the bus station, as lockers in the park are subject to availability and require an additional charge.
Torres del Paine National Park Tickets & Entry Info
Torres del Paine National Park needs at least three full days to enjoy its “must-see” wonders. Tickets are sold in two categories:
- Less than 3 days – costs around 39 USD for foreign adults
- More than 3 days – costs around 56 USD for foreign adults
You can purchase your tickets from the official ticket sales site. If you will be doing W trek and O circuit, you must purchase the 2nd option. If you don’t intend to do these circuits, a 3-day ticket will be enough.
Although tickets are not actively checked, you must visit the ranger station at the main entrance on your first day to validate your entry. After that, no further action is needed when exiting or on subsequent days.
If you bring your passport along, you can get a beautiful Torres del Paine Park stamp on one of its pages!
How to Visit Torres del Paine
Here are your options to visit the Park according to the days at your disposal:
1. W-Trek
The itinerary that has a W letter shape on the map, mainly covering the most spectacular highlights. You need min. 3 days, average speed 5 days, to fully enjoy 7 days. The most difficult part is the Base Torres Viewpoint. During winter you need a guide to do the W-trek.
2. O-Circuit
The largest hiking itinerary that has an O shape on the map. For the O trek, you would need around 7-8 days and it’s closed during the winter (from April to October).
3. Visiting Viewpoints by Car
It is possible to enjoy the beauty of the park also by car, stopping at the various viewpoints. They are extremely beautiful and to reach some of them you need to do some trekking from the parking lot.
3-Day Torres del Paine Itinerary
Unlike our extended explorations of mysterious Rapa Nui, our Torres del Paine visit was more condensed. Since we had only 3 days to explore the park, we focused on the most beautiful sights accessible by car and included just one full day of trekking—of course, the most important one of all: BASE TORRES for the Viewpoint of the Torres.
Here’s how we made the most of our three-day ticket in the park:
Day 1: Best Viewpoints by Car
Before the main entrance Laguna Amarga Gate we were already shocked and thought that the whole trip was already justified. It got better and better, mirador after mirador.
These miradors are the best viewpoints of the Torres del Paine, positioned along the entire main road of the park from the main gate to the Gray Lagoon and can be easily visited without any trekking:
- Sarmiento Viewpoint
- Mirador Laguna de los Cisnes
- Nordenskjöld View Point
- Mirador Salto Grande
- Mirador Pehoe
- Mirador Condor
- Lago Grey and Glacier Grey (2 hrs trekking Mirador Ferrier)
We spent the day visiting marked miradors and continued to Lago Grey and its magnificent glacier. Word of caution: avoid exiting through Lago Serrano Port due to poor road conditions.
Day 2: Hiking Mirador Base Las Torres – Torres del Paine’s Iconic Trek
We dedicated our second day to the famous Mirador Base Las Torres trek, or also called Base Torres, or Camp Base. Any name works, the goal is the same: to hike up to the iconic Torres (towers) that give Torres del Paine National Park its name.
We were incredibly lucky to have perfect weather that day—something we hadn’t planned at all. If you’re planning this full-day adventure, I highly recommend choosing the sunniest day of your trip. Clear skies are essential not only for the breathtaking views of the Torres but also to make the climb more enjoyable.
How Long Does the Base Torres Trek Take?
They said the hike takes 9 hours, and that’s exactly how long it took us—5 hours to reach the top and 4 hours to descend. And we weren’t slow! We even took a relaxing coffee break at Refugio El Chileno along the way.
Why We Started Late (And Why It Worked)
We were fortunate enough—despite my bad—to start the trek late. While they recommend passing the entrance by 10:00 AM, this isn’t a strict rule. There are other hotels and camping areas beyond the main checkpoint, and the rangers mainly ask where you’re headed to guide you.
We were 10-15 minutes late and worried they might not let us start, but thankfully, they did. That said, keep in mind that Refugio El Chileno closes at 14:00, another checkpoint at 15:00, and the top Torres close at 16:00. While the rangers are flexible, it’s not ideal to arrive at the last minute. You’ll want time to relax, take photos, and enjoy the view. We even had a little picnic with empanadas from Supermercado Patrizia in Puerto Natales!
The Upside of Starting Late
Starting late turned out to be a blessing. Most hikers begin early, so the narrow paths are often crowded. If you’re imagining a solitary nature walk, think again—you’ll be sharing the trail with hundreds of people from around the world.
By starting late, we avoided the crowds, enjoyed a quieter climb, and descended with almost no one around. As the early hikers descended during the steepest part of the trail, they gave us priority since we were still climbing. The best part? We had the iconic Torres viewpoint almost to ourselves.
Are you planning to hike Mirador Base Las Torres? Ask me any of your questions in the comments below!
Day 3: Exploring by Car – Laguna Azul & Waterfalls
On the last day, the weather began to show its harsh side. It was slightly rainy, and the wind was relentless—a well-known fact in Patagonia, especially within the Torres del Paine National Park hikers. They say that in the higher parts of the park, during the O circuit, sometimes, hikers are forced to turn back or take shelter in the refugios and try again the next day.
We were already tired from the previous day—yes, we are not hikers. So we wanted to see the last remaining things, such as Cascada Rio Paine and Laguna Azul. These scenic spots do not require any trekking, the latter unless you want to. Both are found on the same route after Laguna Amarga entrance. First you will see Cascada Rio Paine and its viewpoint on your left and then you will notice a blue laguna with guanacos and free horses running around.
Laguna Azul has also its own entrance to the park but we didn’t want to risk after the first day’s experience!
With the view of the beautiful Laguna Azul and the ducks around, we enjoyed a serene picnic lunch inside our car. We wanted to return to Puerto Natales soon so that we could finally enter and dine at the famous El Asador Patagonico, which I mentioned in the Where to Eat in Puerto Natales section.
Where to Stay: Accommodation Options
I think most people face the same dilemma when planning this trip: Should I stay in Puerto Natales or choose accommodation within Torres del Paine National Park?
Park Lodging
Of course, if you intend to do the W trek and/or the O circuit, you need to arrange your stay within the park’s lodges or campgrounds, as these treks take days. But be aware that the cost of lodges within the park is disproportionate, about US$2,000 per night.
Staying in tents can save you money, although the cost is around 80 EUR/USD minimum and also depends on the extra equipment you will need to rent. Before entering the park, everything needs to be confirmed, and since this park is one of the most desired hiking spots in the world, it is necessary to make reservations in advance.
Here are the official websites for booking. These are two different companies and two different areas within the park.
Staying in Puerto Natales
As we decided to do one and only trekking, the must-visit one, Base Torres Trekking, which is doable in one day, we opted to stay in Puerto Natales. This way we could explore the park during the day and enjoy Puerto Natales in the evenings.
In this way we saved a lot of money as it is much more affordable to stay in a budget hotel in Puerto Natales than staying in a tent inside the park. We also saved money on food as we could do shopping in the local supermarkets in town instead of eating pricey sandwiches in the park or choose a budget restaurant in Puerto Natales.
So we had to drive every day from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine for 3 days! Our doubt at the time of planning was whether it was OK to drive every day from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine for 3 days. It takes 1.5 hours per way and the road is scenic. Perhaps only the last day seemed a bit long to us, but other than that it was totally fine!
Our budget hotel in Puerto Natales was HOSTAL CASA BLANCA, (much better than its online photos) which was clean and comfortable, within walking distance of restaurants and an excellent café shop which I mentioned below in where to eat section.
Most accommodations in Puerto Natales are small hotels clustered in the city center, except for a few higher-end options on the beachfront. In my opinion, the latter doesn’t make much sense unless you specifically want ocean views.
Patagonia’s Estancias
Along the road from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine, you’ll likely spot Chilean cowboys riding with their dogs. They are actually not imitating Hollywood-style cowboys but real Chilean cowboys called gauchos! These gauchos are from Patagonia’s estancias, which are historic sheep ranches once built by Scottish settlers around the 1800s.
Since the 1990s violent volcanic eruption, the wool industry has been damaged and many estancias opened up to tourists. Now you can stay in an Estancia and experience their lifestyle riding a horse alongside a gaucho and enjoy their home-cooked meals. The price of Estancia accommodation is really high, as a night stay comes with various authentic experiences.
Interesting to know: Estancia owners, thanks to their land ownership and economic power, were and still are very influential politically. They had an important role in shaping Chile’s political history, mostly right-winger often clashing with indigenous groups over territory and rights.
Where to Eat in Puerto Natales
After a day of hiking or exploring Torre del Paine Park, you’ll want to refuel well. The restaurants in Puerto Natales can be very expensive.
Here are our tried-and-tested recommendations:
- El Asador Patagónico – An institution in Puerto Natales, a must-try. Since it is always very crowded and there is always a queue outside, we could only manage to enter before 8 p.m.
- La Forastera Burgers – Abundant hamburger and fries, popular with locals and youth.
- La Pampa – Our late-night savior when other kitchens were closed. Big space, good service, variable and delicious menu.
- Restaurant La Burbuja – “Trattoria” style Low cost local restaurant, popular both with tourists and locals. Traditional Chilean dishes, nothing surprising but at least affordable!
- Menta Cafe – For quality coffee devotees and sweet addicts
Traveling Between Puerto Natales & El Calafate
We had previously visited Argentinian Patagonia, including El Calafate and Ushuaia. But if you have never seen Perito Moreno National Park, it’s so close to Torres del Paine that not going would be a really big mistake. (In case, of course, you are planning a separate journey to Argentina, but still you would need another domestic flight just to arrive to El Calafate.)
The Perito Moreno Glacier is an unforgettable experience where you can witness ice breaking off up close without a boat, something you cannot find elsewhere. There are also boat tours available to get even much closer to the glacier.
Crossing the Border with a Rental Car
If you plan to visit Perito Moreno Glacier by your rental car, make sure to inform your rental company in advance as they need to prepare car permit – costs around 90 USD – for border crossing between Chile and Argentina.
We didn’t do this but as far as we were told, it is a scenic and decent 5-hour drive. Only a 50 km part of the road is not in good condition but for this reason most of the car rentals allow only SUV vehicles to cross the border.
Be aware of the weather conditions before planning your journey, the road is said to be very windy.
Bus Travel to El Calafate from Puerto Natales
Instead of taking a tour or crossing the border in your rental car, it would be simpler to take a bus from Puerto Natales to El Calafate. After a 5-hour bus ride, a short taxi or Uber ride will get you to Perito Moreno National Park.
Bus Sur operates all year. You can take a 7:30 a.m. departure from Puerto Natales with arrival at around 14:00. The return bus is at 16:30, a pretty tight schedule to visit Perito Moreno if you consider also there may be queues to enter the park, it is better to plan a 1-night stay in El Calafate.
One-way cost of the bus ticket is 32000 CLP (32 USD/EUR) for a comfortable seat (they call it half bed – semi cama) and 42000 CLP (42 USD/EUR) for cama/bed. Here is the link to purchase.
If you need to do it in one day then you can search for some organized tour options in the Puerto Natales town center or online.
For those planning a comprehensive Chilean adventure, consider combining this Patagonian experience with visits to culturally rich Santiago, the otherworldly Atacama Desert, and the enigmatic Easter Island for the ultimate Chilean journey from north to south
