NEPAL 10 DAYS ITINERARY WITHOUT TREKKING OR HIKING

Since we always thought Nepal was very similar to India, never keen on mountain climbing, and believed there wasn’t much to see besides Kathmandu, we never considered traveling to Nepal for years. The devastating earthquake in 2015 and the country’s dire state added to our reluctance.

That is, until we came across a 4K video on YouTube showcasing the many other places to see in Nepal beyond the Himalayas. Our curiosity piqued, we began to research and finally organized a 10-day trip.

Table of Contents

Our cultural 10 day-itinerary in Nepal without trekking
Our cultural 10 day-itinerary in Nepal without trekking

During this 10 days in Nepal, we realized that despite having a Hindu heritage, it is a place vastly different from India in every aspect. Its natural beauty extends beyond the Himalayas

It was May when we visited  and unfortunately we had to return without seeing the Himalayan views due to pollution and haze (Read more: When is the best time to visit Nepal?).

Instead of the Himalayas, we saw:
✔️ Rhinoceroses in the wild
✔️ Bengal tigers on safari
✔️ Bears, elephants, crocodiles in their natural habitats
✔️ Walked through rice fields and rainforests
✔️ Tried Nepali coffee and tea in medieval city squares
✔️ Watched monkeys performing acrobatics on Tibetan prayer flags
✔️ Danced with locals at a magnificent religious ceremony by Phewa Lake during sunset
✔️ Witnessed awe-inspiring funeral processions attended by huge crowds

Nepal consistently astonished us, and after being spellbound, we promised ourselves to return for a trekking adventure through villages to witness the breathtaking Himalayan views.

Day 1 - Kathmandu

The picture of Kathamndu's most famous temple, Swayambunath Stupa is visible behind a playful monkey, Nepal.
Swayambunath Stupa (Monkey Temple)

Morning: Swayambunath Stupa (Monkey Temple)

We started our day at 9 AM with a visit to the famous Monkey Temple (entrance fee: 200 rupees). Instead of walking and climbing the entrance stairs, we took an Idrive cab to reach here from Thamel. The temple area is large and took us about 1.5 hours to explore. On the way out, we descended the stairs and enjoyed watching the cheeky monkeys playing around. This place is absolutely not to be missed!

Monkeys playing under the Tibetan prayer flags at Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple) in Kathmandu, Nepal
Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple)
A picture of a monkey family drinking water at the Monkey Temple, Kathmandu, Nepal.
Monkey family drinking water at the Monkey Temple
Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple) in Kathmandu, Nepal, with the golden stupa in the background.
The Golden Stupa of sacred Monkey Temple - Swayambunath Stupa
A monkey with a playful or mischievous expression is perched at the Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple) in Nepal.
Caught this cheeky resident making mischief at Swayambhunath!
Inside the temple complex, there is also a rich cultural presence.
Inside the temple complex, there is also a rich cultural presence.
Inside the Monkey Temple Complex, Kathmandu you can still witness the intricate process of creating Paubha, the traditional Nepalese art form similar to Tibetan mandalas.
You can witness the intricate process of creating Paubha, the traditional Nepalese art form similar to Tibetan mandalas.

Late Morning: Ghats on Bagmati

It was around 11.30 when we took another Idrive cab to get the Ghats on the Bagmati River used to be beautiful and important, but now they look old and forgotten.

The Rough Guide Nepal convinced us with the picture to visit these ghats, but we felt really let down.

We knew this place wasn’t so touristy, and now we understand why – these temples in Nepal were once amazing but now they’re completely abandoned.

We actually found what we were hoping to see later at Pashupatinath Temple on another day.

Most of the ghats weren’t very exciting, except for Tin DewalPancha Badi Ghat, and Radha Krishna Mandir. Unfortunately there weren’t any signs, so we couldn’t even tell which ones we were looking at!

Tin Dewal temple on the Bagmati River ghats in Nepal, an abandoned historical structure with royal connections to King Gyanendra's family.
Tin Dewal, a real hidden gem at the Bagmati River ghats, a glimpse into Nepal's royal heritage.
Glimpses of renewal amid the forgotten ghats of Bagmati River kathmandu nepal
Glimpses of renewal amid the forgotten ghats of Bagmati River.
Nepalese man looking through an ornately carved traditional window at the Bagmati ghats.
Living heritage: Local resident framed by centuries-old architecture.
Deteriorating temple structures at the unrestored section of Bagmati River ghats in Nepal.
Abandoned splendor at Bagmati River's unrestored ghats.
Dog with tilak mark on forehead resting inside temple grounds at Bagmati River ghats.
The blessed temple dog proudly sports his "third eye" marking.
Family dog with ceremonial markings lounging by a home within the Bagmati ghats temple complex.
Another blessed dog

We did have one stroke of luck though – at Tin Dewal, we met the owner who’s related to Nepal’s last king, Gyanendra. He shared some interesting stories about Nepalese history and culture with us. Maybe in the future this zone will be beautiful again if they restore them to their former glory.

At the Tin Dewal, we met the owner who is coming from the family of last king Gyanendra and told us a little about the Nepalese history and culture.

Afternoon: Durbar Square

From the Ghats, we couldn’t find a taxi, so we walked about 15 minutes to reach Durbar Square, passing through the Freak Street, once famous for its hippie culture.

For lunch, we had Nepal’s famous momos (dumplings) at a terrace restaurant with a view of Durbar Square.

After enjoying a lunch of famous “momos” (Nepalese dumplings) at a restaurant terrace overlooking the square, we hired a guide to help us understand all the beautiful buildings and temples. We negotiated a little and paid 1000 rupees total instead of the double he initially asked. It was definitely worth having a guide to see everything in one hour, as it’s not easy to navigate with just a guidebook. The royal palace and ceremony palace are the ones you can enter, others are viewed from outside.

The entrance ticket can be extended by providing a passport photo and visa info for as many days as you want within your visa.

After the tour, we wandered around Durbar Square to take millions of pictures and observe locals praying at the various temples.

Tip: You can extend your Durbar Square ticket for free—CLICK  HERE TO READ ALL TIPS FOR NEPAL 

Collection of UNESCO World Heritage temples at Durbar Square Kathmandu with tour guide explaining their significance.
UNESCO treasures of Durbar Square needs a guide to enjoy.
Panoramic view of UNESCO World Heritage Site Durbar Square in Kathmandu, Nepal.
The timeless charm of Durbar Square Kathmandu.
Historic Kalbhairav Temple at Durbar Square Kathmandu featuring the terrifying manifestation of Lord Shiva.
Kalbhairav Temple: Shiva's fearsome form in stone.
Traditional Nepalese religious ceremony with colorful costumes and music performers at Durbar Square Kathmandu.
We were lucky to see a religous ceremony at Durbar Square Kathmandu.

Late Afternoon: Kumari Gar

Between 4:30-6:00 PM, we visited Kumari Gar, the residence of the living Goddess. Easily recognizable in Durbar Square, thanks to 2 white lion statues protecting  the gate, the palace has a beautiful courtyard, where visitors enter in small groups, free of charge.

We were instructed to stop taking photos and put our phones away by the guardian family of Kumari. Otherwise they wouldn’t let her out. In fact, only when they ensured everyone was respecting the rules did the Kumari appear for a few precious minutes on her balcony.

Note that Kumari Gar opens its doors only twice a day: from 11:00 to 12:00 and from 16:30 to 17:30.

Find more tips and curiosities in the Nepal Useful Guide

 

Historic Kumari Ghar (Kumari’s House) in Kathmandu Durbar Square, Nepal – home of the living goddess Kumari, featuring traditional Newari architecture.
Kumari’s Residence in Kathmandu’s Durbar Square
Awaiting the Kumari’s invitation at Kathmandu Durbar Square — my favorite detail is the natural charm of a lovely elderly Nepalese’s feet behind me.

Evening: Thamel

We walked through the Ason Bazaar, starting from the amazing Bodhi tree near Kali Temple. Ason Market  is a busy and lively market full of spice and dried fish odor, and took us to the tourist area of Kathmandu, the famous Thamel.

Colorful piles of spices at a market stall in Thamel, Kathmandu, with vendors and shoppers in the background." Description: This photo captures the lively spice section of Thamel’s market, where mounds of turmeric, cumin, and chili create a vivid display. Locals and tourists alike browse the fragrant offerings, a sensory overload that defines Kathmandu’s bustling streets.
Colorful piles of spices at a market stall in Asok Market
Crowded Ason Market in Kathmandu, Nepal, with locals shopping for spices, textiles, and fresh produce in a lively traditional bazaar.
Bustling Ason Market – Kathmandu’s Vibrant Local Bazaar
Narrow streets of Kathmandu filled with shops, temples, and pedestrians on the walk from Thamel to Durbar Square.
Walking from Thamel to Durbar Square – A Glimpse of Kathmandu’s Soul
Daily life in Kathmandu as people walk from Durbar Square towards Thamel, passing by street vendors and traditional Newari architecture.
Durbar Square to Thamel

We were curious about Kaiser Garden — though the real curiosity sparked when we discovered its original name: the Garden of Dreams. These days, it’s often called “Kaiser Garden” after its creator, a Nepalese army marshal named Kaiser Shumsher — not a German or Austrian, despite what the name might suggest! At first, we hesitated to go in. It looked a bit too manicured, and the entry fee made it feel like it might be just a simple tourist trap. But in the end, it was absolutely worth it. We relaxed in this neoclassical garden at sunset full of blooming flowers and sipped traditional masala tea at the Kaiser Café. Let’s just say, after the smoggy, crowded chaos of Kathmandu’s streets, it felt like a breath of fresh — and slightly fragrant — air.

Kaiser Cafe in the Garden of Dreams, a historical neoclassical garden in the tourist district of Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal.
Kaiser Cafe in the Garden of Dreams
Originally built in the 1920s by Field Marshal Kaiser Shumsher Rana, the Garden of Dreams in Kathmandu is a beautifully restored neo-classical oasis inspired by Edwardian design, with six pavilions symbolizing Nepal's six seasons.
A serene corner of the Garden of Dreams — where history, architecture, and nature intertwine in the heart of Kathmandu.

Then we strolled around Thamel, shopped in interesting and unique souvenir shops. Honestly, few countries nowadays offer a unique souvenir shopping experience, as everything has become the same factory-made stuff.

Then for dinner, we had a traditional Nepalese meal at Thamel House Restaurant, with live music and a cultural show. Yes, it was very touristy, but still the food was authentic — and where else can we have the opportunity to watch a cultural show for free?

Thamel is really lively until 9:30 PM. After this hour, many bars and clubs start with disco and live music till late. So when you choose your accommodation, be aware of the noise until late hours.

The vibrant streets of Thamel—where culture, colors, and chaos come alive!
Narrow alleys in Thamel lined with bars, restaurants, and colorful buildings.
Wandering through Thamel’s hidden alleys—where every turn reveals a new bar or restaurant!
A taste of Nepal—delicious food and mesmerizing traditional dance under one roof!
Thamel House Restaurant. A taste of Nepal—delicious food and mesmerizing traditional dance in a cozy garden!
The picture showing the outside street view of Thamel House Restaurant in the Thamel district of Kathmandu, Nepal
In the dark but secure streets of Thamel, our restaurant - Thamel House Restaurant

Day 2 - Kathmandu and Nagarkot

Morning: Ason Market and Durbar Square

We started our day walking from Thamel to Durbar Square, passing through the vibrant Ason Market. The early morning market walk was a better and colourful  experience respect to the evening before as we saw farmers selling fresh products and locals seeking blessings at the temples. We enjoyed a morning coffee at Himalaya Java Coffee (a perfect alternative to the big coffee chains) at Durbar Square, with a beautiful view of the historic buildings at the Durbar Square.

Tourists posing at the Himalaya Java Coffee (a perfect local alternative to the big coffee chains) at Durbar Square, Kathmandu, Nepal
Morning caffe at the Himalaya Java Coffee (a perfect local alternative to the big coffee chains) at the Durbar Square
Durbar Square View from Himalaya Java Coffee Shop
The view from Himalaya Java Coffee at the Durbar Square

Mid-Morning: Boudhanath Stupa

From Durbar Square, we took an Idrive to the famous Boudhanath Stupa (400 rupees for the ride and 400 rupees for entrance). After the Monkey Temple, it was a bit disappointing for us at first glance, but the spiritual atmosphere then made us appreciate its significance. We joined the locals in circling the stupa—an Hinduist religious practice. In Hinduism, the deities are often envisioned as facing east, and walking clockwise around a stupa thanks to the correct orientation, forces the sacred connection. It was particularly interesting the 3rd floor of the modern building close to the stupa entrance, reserved for prayers, priests ready to give you their blessings – in exchange of a donation –  and flickering butter lamps.

The spritual atmosphere of Baadhapur Stupa
Baadhapur Stupa the ticket entrance from the road

Baadhapur Stupa entrance

Poeple circumambulating around the Baadhapur Stupa.

Buddists circumambulating around the Baadhapur Stupa.

Baadhapur Stupa inside

Baadhapur Stupa inside

Baadhapur Stupa

Baadhapur Stupa

Baadhapur Stupa flower offerings

Flower offerings

Nagarkot town center with hotels, some restaurants, and a local market

Unappealing Nagarkot Town Center

Scenic Trekking Path Through the Nagarkot Forest

Scenic Trekking Path Through the Nagarkot Forest

Nagarkot hotels positioned up on the hill looking to Himalayas

Nagarkot Hotels Overlooking the Majestic Himalayas

Afternoon: Transfer to Nagarkot

Using the local Uber app (IDRIVE), we paid 1600 rupees for a private car to Nagarkot. The trip amazed us with spectacular rural views, glimpses of village life, rice terraces, and mountains. We stayed in a homestay a little far from the center of Nagarkot, which was supposed to have sunrise views of the Himalayas from our room and balcony. Unfortunately, we missed this due to mist and air pollution. (Read more about Best Time to Visit Nepal and our experience with the weather)  Nevertheless, we enjoyed a little trek within the village, walking through rice fields and forest, and had a wonderful dinner at our homestay, Hotel Village View Nagarkot.

Spectacular views of rice terraces on the road from Kathmandu to Nagarkot
Spectacular views of Nagarkot Trip

Day 3- Bhaktapur - Patan

Morning: Bhaktapur

The ride from Nagarkot to our hotel in Bhaktapur took 35 minutes by iDrive. 
After checking in, we strolled towards Durbar Square of Bhaktapur. We had a morning coffee at The Grind Coffee Terrace overlooking Durbar Square.
From the narrow streets full of souvenirs, we arrived at Pottery Square. It was possible to learn how to make pottery; short courses were available, I would loved to!
However, my desire to see more in a limited time overcame my curiosity, and we proceeded to Taumadhi Square and However, our desire to see more in a limited time overcame my curiosity, and we proceeded to There are four amazing squares in the city: Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square, Durbar Square, Pottery Square, and Dattatreya Square. Pottery Square is perhaps the least beautiful or interesting, unless you are into the pottery business.
Pottery Square is perhaps the least beautiful or interesting, unless you are into the pottery.
After promising to return by sunset for a drink on one of the many rooftops, we continued to the Dattatreya square.
Honestly, we couldn’t choose among the three beautiful squares; each held a different kind of charm.

Detail of a historical building in Durbar Square of Bhaktapur
Detail of a historical building in Durbar Square of Bhaktapur

Afternoon: Patan

We took an Idrive to reach to Patan (it is shorter if you go from Kathmandu) 750 NPR 30-45 min.
Patan’s Durbar Square, we didn’t enter but enjoyed the view from The King of Momo’s restaurant terrace. It wasn’t our favorite in terms of food, but the view was amazing. Since Durbar Squares were becoming familiar by this point, Patan’s most interesting thing for us was the Golden Temple.
Golden Temple
The entrance fee is 100 rupees per person, and leather shoes are not allowed inside due to the concept of purity. The 8 year-old-priest and his short ceremony marking the time were fascinating.
He rings a wooden bell every hour, announcing the time by the number of strikes.
According to the tradition, a young boy under 12 becomes the head of this important temple for 30 days, assisted by an elder but still young boy (15-16 years old) who celebrates the most important rituals. This tradition dates back to ancient times. During a war, no one could care for the Buddha statue at the temple except for a young boy sent by his family, with the hope that no soldier would harm a child. After the success of this strategy, young priest tradition started. 

There is a boy priest at the Golden Temple of Patan, Nepal. The picture shows the religious ceremony he is managing at the temple.
The boy Priest of Patan's Golden Temple
A view from a terrace to the Durbar Square of Patan in Nepal
Durbar Square of Patan

Evening: Back to Bhaktapur

After Patan, we returned to Bhaktapur again via iDrive for the same price of 750 rupees (exploring Patan from Kathmandu is actually better and cheaper!). We were so happy to be back in Bhaktapur and its atmosphere reminiscent of the 1950s. 
We tried the famous  “Juju dhau” literally the King of Yogurt, which is actually The Bhaktapur’s special yogurt curd famous in all Nepal.
Then had drinks at Cafe Harati rooftop in the middle of Taumadhi Square, which was very enjoyable to watch lively  evening with men and women strolling around in traditional clothes. 
For dinner, we went to Dewa Lahana, the branch of the famous restaurant in Kirtipur, considered the best Newari restaurant in Nepal.
We finished the day with masala tea on the terrace of Travellers Bistrot at the cozily illuminated Dattatreya Square.

A temple at the Dattatreya Square

Dattatreya Square

Detail of a historical building in Durbar Square of Bhaktapur

Detail of a historical building in Durbar Square of Bhaktapur

bhaktapur's cozy roads with authentic shopping experiences in Nepal

bhaktapur's cozy roads with authentic shopping experiences

An entrance of a temple at the Dattatreya Square in Bhaktapur, Nepal

A temple at the Dattatreya Square

Nice boutique hotels and cafes at the Dattatreya Square, Bhaktapur, Nepal

Shops and cafes at the Dattatreya Square

Ancient wells with stairs like in Indian Ancient Architecture in Bhaktapur, Nepal

Ancient wells with stairs like in Indian Ancient Architecture in Bhaktapur, Nepal

An old local man posing to the photograph sitting at the Durbar Square of Bhaktapur

Lovely people of Bhaktapur

A daily life scene from Bhaktapur, Nepal, an old lady sitting and relaxing on traditional Nepalese wooden structures.

A daily life scene from Bhaktapur

A scene of ceramics left on the ground for drying at the Pottery Square Bhaktapur, Nepal.

Pottery Square Bhaktapur, Nepal

Cafe Harati rooftop in the middle of Taumadhi Square, Bhaktapur, Nepal

Cafe Harati rooftop in the middle of Taumadhi Square

Beautiful Taumadhi Square, Bhaktapur, Nepal

Taumadhi Square, Bhaktapur, Nepal

A proverb about world famous Nepalese warriors Gurkha's

World famous Nepalese warriors Gurkha's

In Bhaktapur's Taumadhi Square, a pair of giant wagon wheels are used to transport the "Lingam," a 25-meter-high pole or tree, which is a phallic symbol for Shiva.

In Bhaktapur's Taumadhi Square, a pair of giant wagon wheels are used to transport the "Lingam," a 25-meter-high pole or tree, which is a phallic symbol for Shiva.

About BHAKTAPUR 

Bhaktapur joins our list of the world’s coziest towns, which includes CuencaUbudHoi AnShangriLa.. The city is surrounded by busy roads, but just entering one of the many city gates feels like time travel. It’s like stepping back into ancient times. Here, people wear traditional clothes, and old men gathered under covered stalls curiously observe their surroundings. In the morning, people walk to the temples and make offerings to the deities. Around 5:30 PM, you’ll see men playing chess. Traditional weighing vendors and fish and meat sold without refrigeration add to the unique atmosphere.

There are four amazing squares in the city:  Durbar Square, Pottery Square, Taumadhi Square, and Dattatreya Square. Pottery Square is perhaps the least beautiful or interesting, unless you are into the pottery business. Durbar Square is full of tourists, our favorites were Taumadhi Square and Dattatreya Squares. 

To enter the historical city of Bhaktapur you need to pay 1800 NPR per person. It’s well spent, as you gain access to 4 amazing squares and stroll around the truly beautiful You can even extend your ticket free of charge for a week. 

About PATAN

My husband’s original plan was to stay one night in Patan as well. However, I, being the “destroyer deity” of his plans, wanted to see Patan to see if it was worth staying for one more night on our last day before returning home, potentially replacing Kathmandu. As beautiful as Patan is, I won the argument, and my husband agreed that staying there for one night wouldn’t be worth it. Our preference was for the chaotic but fascinating Kathmandu for our last night. We strolled around the city’s backstreets, finding them quite cozy, though not as cozy as Bhaktapur’s.
In Patan, non-Nepalese tourists are charged 1000 NPR  per person only to access beautiful Durbar square, which is still under construction. This fee applies if you enter between 8.00-19.00. Overwhelmed by hot weather, not very proudly, we opted for a lunch at a panoramic terrace restaurant looking over the Durbar Square instead of paying the entrance fee. 
 

BUS TICKET FROM BHAKTAPUR TO CHITWAN

 
We contacted Graceful Adventure via WhatsApp for Chitwan buses the next day, and they reserved two seats for us to be paid directly on the bus. We have two options: either a 6:30 AM departure from the Sorakhutte Tourist Bus Park near Thamel or a more convenient 7:25 AM departure from the Baba Petrol Station (as we’ll be joining from Bhaktapur.)
​The price of deluxe bus was 850 NPR per person, predicted to be in Chitwan at 12.30 (we arrived at 14.00 :)) 
A dog, near the Raptu river in Sauraha Town in Chitwan National Park, it is sunset and the colours and view is amazing.
Sunset in Sauraha

Day 4 - Chitwan National Park

Transfer from Kathmandu to Chitwan

Upon our arrival in Sauraha, many tuk-tuks awaited to take visitors to the center for just 200 rupees. Sauraha is the ideal place to stay when visiting Chitwan National Park. It’s a small town with a few side roads branching off a main road that ends at the river. There are many restaurants and bars along the riverside, which are especially spectacular at sunset. During the day, you can spot elephants, deer, monkeys, and even crocodiles across the river. 

 

Sauraha Town center, rhino statue
Nepa Sauraha riverside at the Chitwan National Park
Sauraha riverside, restaurants with view

Afternoon: Bicycle Ride in Chitwan

Since we arrived at 2:00 PM, and we didn’t reserve any tours online, we had missed some afternoon adventures. However, we rented bicycles for 200 rupees each and explored the surrounding area. The ride from Sauraha to the Elephant Breeding Center was beautiful, offering views of rice fields. Even the center itself didn’t convince me much ethically. Eventhough they say they sometimes chain the elephants, we all saw them in chains, sadly a wild male elefant was visiting them, they said everyday he comes to visit at the same hour- sunset. Then we found a better elephant sanctuary, keep reading! On our bikes we enjoyed rural life of the Tharu Villages. The Tharu Tribe is famous in Medicine as the tribe that does not catch malaria despite living in a malaria zone.

 

Around the Tharu Villages, Chitwan National Park
Around the Tharu Villages, Chitwan National Park
Sunset at the Nepal Chitwan National Park, Tharu Villages rice fields
Nepal Chitwan National Park, Tharu Villages rice fields
A picture of an elephant in Elephant Breeding Center (ethics debatable) Chitwan National Park
Elephant Breeding Center (ethics debatable)

Evening: Dinner in Sauraha

There are many restaurant options, especially the ones by the river, which are quite nice, but we chose Shantika for dinner the first night. We liked the patio and the cute dog, went inside and met the Canadian owner. He also established an Elephant Center as an alternative to the Elephant Breeding Center, whose ethics are questionable. You can book a visit to the elephant center with them and learn a lot about these magnificent animals. 

Sunset at the Rhapti River, Chitwan National Park, Nepal
Sunset at the Rhapti River

Day 5 - Chitwan National Park

Morning: Canoe and Walking Tour

Our day began with canoeing on the Rapti River at 7:00 AM. I am definetely not a morning person but for me, it was quite a late start, as the walking tour became somewhat unbearable due to the hot weather by 11:00 AM.

The shared canoe experience was lovely, single seating ensured the views but the seats themselves were quite uncomfortable after 10 minutes.In spite of the discomfort it was a really fascinating tour, as The Rapti River originates in the central mountains of Nepal, then flows into the Napaji River, and eventually merges with the Ganges River. We saw many kinds of birds migrating from Siberia to Tibet, and of course, crocodiles. I especially fell in love with the spontaneous lily flowers floating on the river.

When we disembarked from the canoe, our walking tour began. We came across a rhino eating and relaxing in the water. Since our group had only 6 people, we were able to get really close to the rhino from a safe position.

Rhino sighting during our walking tour
Our walking tour at the Chitwan National Park
Spontaneous lily flowers floating on the Rhapti River, Chitwan National Park, Nepal
Spontaneous lily flowers floating on the Rhapti River.

Afternoon: Jeep Safari Tour

We had free time for a lunch break from 11 to 12:45, during which we went back to Shantika. For the jeep safari, the small walking groups combined to get on the same jeep. I love jeep safari tours; I can spend hours on a jeep. This was similar to an African safari experience but, unfortunately, with fewer encounters. We saw many monkeys, birds, a sloth bear, elephants, spotted deer, and many other minor animals. However, we weren’t lucky enough to see the Bengali Tiger. That’s nature, and we knew it, so there were no disappointments. The driver and guide were really careful. We also stopped at the Crocodile Breeding Center farm to see Gharial and Mugger crocodiles, which are endangered species.

A picture of wil spotted dears at the Chitwan National Park, Nepal
Spotting the spotted deers
Jeep Safari Tour

Evening: Sunset and Dinner in Chitwan

We got back to Saurahu by canoe, and as soon as we arrived, the sunset view captivated us. We stayed at one of the restaurants to enjoy the view. For dinner, we chose another restaurant, popular with the locals, on the main street: Jalapenos. Despite its Mexican name, it serves local cuisine and some pizzas (of course, we didn’t try the pizza, being from Naples, we just observed).

Safari Guide for Chitwan National Park and Prices

Once you arrive in Chitwan—especially if you’re staying in a central part of Sauraha—you’ll find plenty of travel agencies and independent guides offering even cheaper safari tours. Your hotel will likely have options as well, which is great for comparing prices and packages.Here are the prices we found in Sauraha when we arrived. Keep in mind, these are low-season rates—about as cheap as it gets after some negotiation. That said, we didn’t find the service very satisfying. For more details, keep reading:

  • Chitwan National Park Entrance Fee: 4,000 NPR

  • Elephant Breeding Center (ethics debatable): 100 NPR

  • Group Safari Package (Canoe, Walk, Jeep): ~6,500 NPR per person

  • Private Full-Day Jeep Safari: ~$250 for two people

  • Private Full-Day Walking Tour: ~$120 for two people

When we first got to Sauraha, we felt a bit stressed. We hadn’t booked anything online in advance and arrived in the afternoon, only managing to rent bikes and explore the area on our own. 

We ended up booking a full day safari package including morning canoe + walking tour, lunch break and afternoon jeep safari. It wasn’t so bad, the guide were really kind, but to be honest, we were hoping for a bit more in terms of professional knowledge and organization.

That’s why I recommend making sure your guides are experienced and certified—especially for walking tours, where safety and knowledge really matter. Booking your Chitwan safari in advance through trusted providers can give you peace of mind and help you secure your spot, particularly during high season.

Below, you’ll find affiliate links to carefully selected tours from our trusted partners. These are options we’d genuinely recommend for their value, safety standards, and guide quality. Booking through these links comes at no extra cost to you and helps support this blog.

 

Bus Journey to Pokhara

Buses to Pokhara and Kathmandu can be booked at hotels, hostels, and homestays. Buses to Pokhara depart at 7:30 AM (sofa luxury) and 8:00 AM (deluxe). Buses to Kathmandu depart at 7:30 AM and 8:30 AM.

For full bus guide visit Nepal Useful Information Page.

Day 6 - Pokhara

Arrival and Lunch at Phewa Lake

Our bus departed from Sauraha, Chitwan at 7:30 arrived in Pokhara by 14:30.
When we arrived to Pokhara bus station one of the many taxi drivers offered us a ride to our hotel for 300 rupees, which we took. (Idrive showed 260 NPR)
We had our Dal Bhat Lunch in a restaurant with terrace looking over Pewa Lake. And strolled around the shops on the roads around the lake. Pokhara has actually the good vibes as we have always read and heard about.

A view of Pewa Lake in Pokhara, Nepal and people near the lake queuing to fill water tanks
Our first lunch in Pokhara with the view of Pewa Lake and people queueing to fill their water tanks

Afternoon: Tal Barahi Temple Boat Ride

From Barahi Ghat, we hopped on a shared boat for 115 rupees per person to reach the famous Tal Barahi Temple, an important island temple for the Nepalese people on Phewa Lake. While the temple itself wasn’t extensive, we soon realized preparations for a sunset ceremony were underway exactly where we took the boat, at the Barahi Ghat.

Sunset at the Pewa Lake of Pokhara, Nepal from distance it is visibile the very sacred Hinduist island temple of Tal Brahai
Reaching to the very sacred island Temple of Tal Barahi by Canoe.

Evening: Daily Aarti Ceremony by Phewa Lake

Every evening at around 6 p.m. this spectecular Hinduist ceremony is held with lights, fire, incenses and many other religious instruments.There is always a crowd – mostly locals, some Indian tourists, and even a few Westerners like us.
The atmosphere is truly evocative, a sight and event not to be missed.
​After the ceremony, we strolled along the scenic lake circuit, grabbed Nepalese coffee, and enjoyed dinner at the Marwadi restaurant with lots of Naans and Indian food.
​We finished the evening with some shopping before heading back to our hotel.

Daily Aarti Ceremony by Pewa Lake, Every evening at around 6 p.m. this spectecular Hinduist ceremony is held with lights, fire, incenses and many other religious instruments.
Daily Aarti Ceremony by Pewa Lake, one of the best experiences in Nepal

6th DAY NOTES:

  • Don’t worry about haggling for boat prices – they’re fixed and clearly displayed on large panels.
  • We also attempted to schedule a visit the following day to the Nepal Blue Mountain Organic Coffee Farm, located about 5 km from the Devil’s Cave. The tour, priced at 30 USD per person, included a delightful coffee tasting session.
  • Additionally, if you’re interested in exploring the rich Tibetan culture in Pokhara, you can opt for a guided tour that offers an immersive experience. The tour provides an opportunity to visit Tibetan monasteries, observe traditional rituals, and learn about the unique lifestyle and history of the Tibetan community in the region. It’s an enriching way to experience both the spiritual and cultural aspects of Pokhara.
Pokhara's popular Pewa lakeside evenings are very colorful.
Pokhara's popular lakeside evenings are very colorful.

Day 7 - More of Pokhara

Morning: Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave and Devi's Fall

We took an IDrive to visit the Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave (from the lakeside for around 360 rupees.)
It is actually both a temple and a cave, and it’s considered one of the largest caves in South Asia. While on some blogs was written that it was obligatory to remove shoes, we found it was okay to keep them on during our visit. 
I was more impressed with the colorful stair entrance of the cave till reaching the end of the cave. There is a stunning view through a little natural rock cleft, corrispondes the ultimate part of the Devi’s Fall. 

Souvenir shops outside the cave sell pieces of holy stone, and a statue of this near the exit explains the significance of this holy stone in fact being a fossil stone.
All
Devi’s Fall, also known as Patale Chhango. The entrance fee is just 100 rupees and shares the same street as the Gupteshwor Cave. I tend to call the name as Devil’s Fall, but actually it is Devi’s Fall, Devi being the name of a Swiss tourist was tragically swept away here by the current​ while swimming with her husband in 1961. Her body was recovered with difficulty a short distance downstream. This waterfall is most impressive during the rainy season.

Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave Temple, Pokhara's must see's
Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave Temple, Pokhara's must see's
Devi's Fall, also known as Patale Chhango, more impressive in the rainy season

Afternoon: Pokhara Bazaar & Lakeside

A taxi ride from the caves (around 410 rupees) took us to the Pokhara Bazaar which was suggested on internet as things to do in Pokhara. We didn’t find it necessarily exciting but it offers some colourful photo opportunities as the area is full of old buildings and a variety of shops selling pottery, furniture, woodcarvings etc.

We planned to visit the World Peace Pagoda and Sarangkot, but unfortunately, the misty and polluted weather wouldn’t have allowed us to do so.

However, we still had a fantastic time exploring the lakeside area and enjoying the views and shopping while waiting for the sunset to take a boat tour.

A walk around the Pewa Lake day or night is a calming experience.
Nepalese girls resting during their work at the Pokhara bazaar.

Evening: Pokhara Sunset Boat Tour

To get the best colours and views on the Pewa Lake we waited sunset to treat ourselves a one-hour boat tour with for 900 rupees. 

​Despite the city noise still being in the background, we still enjoyed the romantic colors of the sunset and the surrounding nature.

For dinner, we opted for the Harbour Hotel Restaurant as we weren’t feeling quite up for something heavy.

A view of Pewa lake in Pokhara, Nepal, during the boat ride at sunset, visible mountains and other canoes.
If there was no pollution, this view would be even more magnificent, we could see the Himalayas.

Day 8-9: Back to Kathmandu

Day 8: From Pokhara to Kathmandu

After our longest bus trip in Nepal (almost 11 hours) we were left outside of Kathmandu to take a taxi instead of arriving to Thamel.  We arrived at 19.00 to our hotel and after freshening up we went to have a quick souvenir shopping in Thamel and had our dinner in a nice garden atmosphere at the Dechenling Garden Restaurant

Durbar Square Details: A Nepalese lady in traditional dress is visible sitting near her kiosk, near a monumental building with a magnificent gate and at the entrance there are statues of lions.
Durbar Squre, a daily life scene in Kathmandu
People sitting and chatting on the stairs of temples at the durbar sqaure in Kathmandu Nepal
Nepalese people love to sit and chat on the stairs of the temples at the Durbar Square, Kathmandu

Day 9: Durbar Square, Thamel, and Pashupatinath Temple

We enjoyed the extension of our Durbar Square entrance visa on our return. Took more pictures, visited Kumari again. Thenpassed almost all day in Thamel Area shopping

In Kathmandu Durbar Square, a Hindu monk stands still with his bowl waiting for offerings. A beautiful everyday scene in Kathmandu, Nepal
A monk stands still with his bowl waiting for offerings at the Durbar Square of Kathmandu.

EVENING - Pashupatinah Temple

I am glad we left the must-see Pashupatinath Temple to the end, as it is a quite strong spiritual experience. 
We took an IDrive, as always, from Thamel to Pashupatinath Temple. The cremation ceremonies are held 24 hrs but the gates are open for visitors from 9.30 a.m. till 09.00 p.m. We were surprised and shocked by the number of cremation ceremonies and the amount of smoke! Hopefully we had with us FFP masks. 
Like in Pokhara, also here every day at sunset they hold a Aarti Ceremony (A Hinduist ceremony is held with lights, fire, incenses and many other religious instruments). Surprizing to us, many locals prefer to spend their Saturday night watching cremation ceremonies and joining the Aarti Ceremony. According to the Hinduism, if you closely observe death, you will better understand that this world is impermanent and drive your thoughts and behaviours accordingly. Many people got early to take their seats on the other side of the riverbank we didn’t understand at first why, therefore we couldn’t find a close spot to watch the ceremony comfortably.
Pashupatinath is a beautiful temple, there are many
Sadhus (the Holy Men with long beards and make up in colorful cloths), the people singing and dancing with the religious music and hundreds of monkeys playing around. When I took a picture with Sadhus, I had the opportunity to talk to one of them, who spoke perfect English and impressed me with his knowledge about Italian people. 

We wisely left the temple before the end of the ceremony, with the reasonable fear that we would not be able to find a taxi back to the city.

Pashupatinah Temple Kathmandu
Pashupatinah Temple, an experience inexplicable by words, a must-see for strong hearths and minds at sunset.
Aarti Ceremony at the Pashupatinath temple in kathmandu nepal, people watching the ceremony at the stairs along the river.
Like in Pokhara, also here every day at sunset they hold Aarti Ceremony.

Final Thoughts on our Nepal Trip

Nepal surprised us everyday with its vibrant culture, its gracious people, and its range of landscapes. What began as skepticism about visiting a country we thought was just about mountains turned into one of our most memorable trips 
From the medieval town squares of Bhaktapur and Kathmandu to the wildlife sanctuary of Chitwan and the peaceful landscape of Pokhara, each day was full of new finds. We promised to return and trek through villages and see the Himalayan scenery which had escaped us this time.
If you’re hesitant about visiting Nepal because you’re not into trekking or climbing, I encourage you to reconsider. This beautiful country is one of the rare distinct realities in the current global World.

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