One Day in Naples:
A Walking Tour
to Discover the City’s Soul
This tour, starting from the coastline of Naples, takes you through the streets, cafes, and shops where you can observe the lifestyle of the Neapolitans.
From the breathtaking views to the coffee, from the pizzas to the architecture, from the music to the history and legends, it leads you slowly towards the ancient center of Naples, the oldest settlement.
For those who arrive in the morning and continue to Sorrento or Capri in the evening, you can easily follow the route I take my guests and friends by clicking on the Google Maps links below.
The links in the blue boxes are there to accompany you with famous songs of Naples,
related to the places you will see and the stories I narrate.
Before your trip, don’t miss Naples Travel Guide post covering everything from transportation and safety to local customs and seasonal events.
Table of Contents
1 - Castel dell'Ovo: Naples' Ancient Seaside Fortress
The castle located by the seaside, Castel dell’Ovo (Egg Castle – according to legend, the castle stands thanks to an egg underneath), is the oldest castle in the city.
It is possible to climb to its terrace and enjoy a view of Naples from the sea.
Borgo Marinaro – ancient fishermen’s village
Next to the Castle there is Borgo Marinaro, which may now appear as a touristy place with its cafes and restaurants, but is actually a neighborhood where fishermen live.
During summer evenings, the cafes and bars here become very lively. However, due to being somewhat touristy, I wouldn’t recommend it for dining.
2. Piazza Vittoria: A Glimpse of Traditional Maritime Life
Walk along the seaside from the Egg Castle to the Square Piazza Victoria, where you can watch the fishermen’s stalls and the seagulls around them in the early morning.
3. Piazza dei Martiri: Elegance and Remembrance
Continue to Piazza dei Martiri, situated in the upscale Chiaia District—one of Naples’ most elegant neighborhoods and its most expensive real estate area. The 4 lion statues in the middle of the square symbolize Neapolitan uprising against Nazi occupation and the liberation of the city in just 4 days. Naples is the first city rebelling against the Nazi’s and also the first liberated one.
The Baretti – Bar Zone – Vicoletto Belledonne
The side streets on your left as you go up with the sea behind, are full of boutiques and restaurants. These little streets make up the Baretti zone as they turn into a street of bars after 20-21. The most important one is called Vicoletto Belledonne, meaning, the narrow street of beautiful women. Baretti is called also the zone of beautiful women in the city “belledonne”.
Right on this square, you can listen to one of the most famous songs about the world war, O surdato ‘nnammurato’
https://youtu.be/LIDB44QXzbE
Although the song originated as a romantic poem written by a soldier in love during the war, Napoli fans unite and sing it together in the stadium during matches to express their deep love for their team.
4. Via Chiaia: Bridging Neighborhoods with Style
Via Chiaia is a lively pedestrian street with boutiques and cafes that leads from Piazza Martiri to the main square. You will see a beautiful bridge in the middle of the street. Ponte di Chiaia, (Chiaia bridge) There is an elevator at the foot of the bridge. Since you change neighborhoods when you go up, this elevator serves as a vertical means of transportation for Neapolitans. It used to have a cost of but now it is free of charge. Alternatively, if you don’t want to wait in the queue, you can use the stairs.
If you go upstairs and it is lunch time, you can try to eat at the restaurant called Osteria della Mattonella.
Culinary Stop: OSTERIA DELLA MATTONELLA:
Since 1978, the same family has been running this restaurant, where you will feel like you are eating at the house of your grumpy Neapolitan grandmother. The food is according to ancient Neapolitan recipes and the prices are good enough to delight you.
I recommend you to go early as there will be a lot of crowds and queues after 13.15.
If you’re short on time, don’t worry, there are other typical places on the route or many alternatives where you can eat on the go.
Historical Highlight: ANTICA PIZZERIA BRANDI:
Towards the end of Via Chiaia, you will see the ‘Antica Pizzeria Brandi’. The importance of this pizzeria, which has a balcony decorated with flags, is that the first pizza was made here.
Although pizza is not preferred nowadays, it is traditional to take a photo with the inscription that pizza was born here 100 years ago on the wall outside.
Since it requires hours to visit the Palace and Theater, it is not feasible within this one day tour.
Instead you can visit the Basilica di San Francesco di Paola pretty quickly.
Opera Enthusiast’s Tip:
https://www.teatrosancarlo.it/en/pages/booking-purchase.html
(if you are on a budget, choose the seats in BALCONATA 5 and 6, try to get the central seats they will cost you around 30-40 eur).
Going to the other side of the square, towards the sea, you will witness the view of Santa Lucia. In the early 1900s, the Naples Port was here and this was the last view the immigrant Neapolitans saw before saling to America, while waving from the ship.
Santa Lucia, a very famous song, actually a sad song about an immigrant who realizes that he will never see his Naples again:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRtpc0qDg2g
Coffee Break: Gran Caffe Gambrinus
Take a coffee at the oldest café in the Naples city, just between the two main squares Piazza Plebiscito e Piazza Trieste e Trenta. Gran Caffe Gambrinus. If you don’t want the bill to come too much, you should drink coffee inside, standing up, like the Neapolitans.
A cup of coffee song:
A TAZZA E CAFFE from 1918, which compares the woman he loves to coffee, a very masculin approach:
“She is like coffee, she is cold as time goes on, she is bitter and sweet on the bottom, and if you don’t stir, the sweetness doesn’t come out.”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?=1jSARURHgUM
6. Maschio Angioino Castle and Galleria Umberto
You can take the road down from the main square and see the Maschio Angioino Castle (New Castle) in Piazza Municipio.
The Castle was founded in the 13th tby French and then in the 16th century renewed by Spanish, with a new white marble facade. Since the choice of white marble on the facade didn’t convince many Neapolitans, during those days, arguments about the architectural choice prevailed, similar to how we criticize the pyramid in front of the Louvre. A crocodile skeleton was found during excavations in the ditch around it, confirming its fabulous/mythical aspect.
Not enough time though to visit the Castle and climb the panoramic terrace for 6 eur so just take pictures from outside so proceed passing through the Galleria Umberto and reach Via Toledo.
Position for Maschio Angioino or Castel Nuovo (New Castle)
Position for Galleria Umberto:
7. Via Toledo/Via Roma: Naples' Premier Shopping Street
Via Toledo is the most popular street of shopping in Naples, a point of reference. a 1,2 km road between Piazza Dante and Piazza Trieste e Trenta (a smaller square just behind the Main Saquare) is called in two ways and neither of them creates confusion.
The road lies between the historical center and the modern center of the city.
Via Toledo is the original name, the surname of the vicerey who commissioned the road construction in 16th century.
After the reunion of Italy, the name changed to Via Roma as a reference to the new capital. Everybody has a preference to call this road in the way they like and it never creates any confusion as the road is unique.
Neapolitan Street Food: Quick Bites Along the Way
Pizzeria Tutino “Crunch” (Via Toledo, 251) for quick pizza or Neapolitan snacks to go. You will love to watch their unique service style a basket lowered from the first-floor kitchen on the street.
Mary’s Sfogliatella (at the entrance of Galleria Umberto), To taste the legendary Neapolitan dessert “Sfogliatella“.
Discover the complete culinary landscape of Naples in my detailed guide ‘Naples Food Journey: From Pizza to Pastries’ where we explore the city’s most iconic delicacies and hidden gastronomic gems.
Don’t Miss: Award-Winning Toledo Metro Station
While exploring Via Toledo, take time to visit the Toledo Metro Station, which has been recognized as one of Europe’s most beautiful subway stations. While the station entrance itself is impressive, the real masterpiece is experienced when riding the escalators. For the full visual impact, you need to take the metro toward a destination and use the escalators at the top floor. The stunning blue light installation creates an otherworldly underwater atmosphere that has made this station an architectural attraction in its own right.
Quartieri Spagnoli: The Spanish Quarters
The narrow streets on the left/upper side of Via Toledo lead to the Spanish quarters, a proud neighbourhood densely populated with a long history that starts back to the settlement of Spanish soldiers in the area. Prostitution, crime long centuries preailed in the area.
A densely populated area with cheerful, colourful people and places is a secure place now to discover and witness the real Neapolitan culture.
Prostitution, poverty and crime prevailed in the area for many centuries. Despite its historical challenges, today the Spanish Quarters have transformed a cheerful and colorful place. It is now one of the best places to witness the vibrant and authentic Neapolitan culture.
Authentic Experience: Visit a “Basso”
If you are still hungry or you need a home made coffe, then ring the bell of the little house in Vico Lungo Gelso 40 (just the parallel of Via Toledo in Quertieri Spagnoli). Your Neapolitan aunt Nunziatina will “Il basso” (the lower floor) o’ Vascio in Neapoletan.
They are found in all Naples city center, these little houses with one or two rooms have with a direct door between their living room and street. Most of the time you will observe elderly people sitting in front of their houses on the street and chatting.
Local Experience: “Limonata a coscia aperta” lemonade with open thighs
Don’t miss trying the famous “Limonata a coscia aperta” (literally “lemonade with open thighs“) from the small kiosks in the Spanish Quarters. This unique experience has a surprising twist—after you receive your lemonade, you’ll need to stand with your legs wide apart as the name suggests. The reason becomes clear when you take a sip: the intensely sour lemonade causes an involuntary reaction that makes the experience memorably amusing. It’s a playful local tradition that tourists rarely discover!
Listen to Tammurriata Nera in the back streets of Via Toledo.
It is one of the famous songs that humorously describes how Neapolitans came out of World War II, their social situation and the torment they suffered.
“A baby was born. Whether you name it Peppe or Ciro (one of the most typical male names in Naples), he’s still black.” (“black” emphasizing the baby’s obvious outside marriage nature. Naples in fact is one of the most colour friendly cities in Europe.)
The song speaks of the people of Naples who starved during the war and the illegitimate children of women who were forced to have relations with American soldiers in exchange for money.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXMPryOrMhs
8. Piazza del Gesù Nuovo: Gateway to Europe's Largest Historical Center
The starting square of the historical center of Naples, the largest historical center in Europe, all of it declared a UNESCO Heritage site. ‘Spaccanapoli‘ or Decumana, the road that splits Naples into two from south to north, is as straight as a ruler. This is one of the most ancient and continuously used roads in the world, dating back to the Ancient Greeks.
Architectural Contrasts: Two Remarkable Churches
As you proceed from the square, you will encounter two distinct churches from different periods, constructed in completely contrasting architectural styles and ideologies: the opulent Church of Gesù Nuovo and the Gothic Santa Chiara Church. Dating back to 1310 A.D., Santa Chiara is the oldest remaining church in Naples and also functions as a monastery. Entrance to both churches is free.
You can listen to the Santa Chiara Monastery song as you pass through here.
“The Monastery of Santa Chiara, closed within the four walls of the Monastery of Santa Chiara,
how many sincere women renounced love and married Jesus.”
The song expresses the desire of an immigrant Neapolitan to return to Naples for fear of finding a city destroyed by war.
“And I am dying with the desire to return to Naples, but what can I do? It scares me to go back…”
Munasterio ‘e Santa Chiara
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STtSHuuepPs
9. Piazza San Domenico Maggiore: Historical Heart of Ancient Naples
The obelisk in this square, the heart of ancient Naples, was built in 1656 after the tuberculosis epidemic. Since the 1600s, Naples’ noble aristocracy has lived in the square and nearby buildings.
Museo Cappella Sansevero: Art and Mystery
In the Museo Cappella Sansevero at the square’s back, find the famous Veiled Christ statue. The bottom floor, once Prince Raimondo di Sangro’s lab for frightening human experiments, now showcases them. Witness these unsettling experiments, don’t risk to not to be able to enter, buy tickets online in advance (12 Euros).
https://www.museosansevero.it/en/online-tickets.
This museum’s building was a significant building where Masons used to met. The museum though is not very large, so you can explore it in about half an hour.
Museo Cappella Sansevero: Art and Mystery
Inside the museums’s building “Palazzo Sansevero” a notorious murder happened in the 1590s, still talked about today.
Princess Maria D’Avalos, met her lover Fabrizio Carafa in this building when her husband Gesaualdo said he was going to hunt. It was actually a trap which worked; Gesaualdo caught and brutally murdered the lovers, leaving their bodies in front of the building as a warning for days.
Maria D’Avalos is now a ghost with blonde hair and a black dress often seen and heard by many at night in Piazza San Domenico Maggiore. People say whenever she passes with very swift movements moves and agonizing screams.
The song “Malafemmina,” not written for Maria D’Avalos but always about a “Bad” woman, is a famous and beloved song written and composed in 1951 by the comedian, poet, and theater and cinema artist Toto, who was also a Neapolitan aristocrat.
10. Via San Gregorio Armeno: The World-Famous Christmas Alley
The street where Neapolitan artisans’ nativity scene shops are located.
The tradition of the Christmas tree, which later came from Northern Europe to Italy, was preceded by the presepe.
Presepe refers to miniature models that depict the birth of Jesus and the environment of that period. Naples is famous for presepe art, and before Christmas, people from all over Europe flock to this street.
Naples not only narrates the birth of Jesus through presepe but has also developed it each year by adding elements from that era. This has allowed observation of changes in costumes, economic activities, and social and cultural developments over centuries.
In modern times, miniatures of the most talked-about figures, including politicians and football players, are also created.
Ancient Naples Beneath Your Feet
The square at the end of San Gregorio Armeno Street, named San Gaetano, used to be the main square of Naples when it was an Ancient Greek-Roman city known as Parthenope.
The columns and stones used in the construction of the churches in the square were taken from demolished Greek-Roman temples.
By entering the San Lorenzo Maggiore Church Complex, you can see Roman ruins through the glass floor.
For those with time, there is also a descent from here to the underground city of Naples, Napoli Sotterrata.
However, you need to buy a ticket and wait for the guided tour schedule. (ticket costs 15 eur) Better if you reserve online for a specific time and tour to not to wait in long queues.
11. Via dei Tribunali: Pizza Paradise on Ancient Streets
Via dei Tribunali, meaning “Street of the Courts,” is named so because it leads to a courthouse dating back to the 16th century.
When you visit Naples, it’s a must-see street filled with Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque churches, along with historical buildings.
This street, housing remnants from Ancient Greek and Roman Naples, features another entrance to an underground city even more claustrophobic than the San Lorenzo Complex. Napoli Sotterraneo tours are conducted, but it may not be ideal for a day trip due to the guided nature. However, if you’re there, you can give it a try.
Naples’ Pizza Heaven
Via dei Tribunali boasts some of Naples’ most celebrated pizzerias:
- Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo for a quick slice
- Pizzeria Dal Presidente for traditional or fried pizza
- Sorbillo for a full sit-down pizza experience (if you’re lucky enough to get a table)
Pulcinella: Naples' Symbolic Figure
Pulcinella, a character representing Naples in the comedy arts, dates back to the 16th century and is encountered everywhere.
Despite all his troubles, Pulcinella is always smiling, playing pranks, wandering around with his mandolin, disliking work, and mocking the strong. There’s a statue of Pulcinella, believed to bring good luck when you touch his nose, located right at the beginning of the side street across from Sorbillo Pizzeria towards the end of Via Tribunale.
The street is called Vico del Fico al Purgatorio.
The song is the city of Pulcinella:
‘A CITTA’ ‘E PULLECENELLA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EtxSYUCWl8
12. Via Duomo: The Miracle of San Gennaro
This event has been happening every year since December 16, 1631, when Neapolitans prayed to San Gennaro to protect themselves from a big eruption of Mount Vesuvius.
In few occasions miracle didn’t happen and there had been awful events. In 2016, there were big fires near Mount Vesuvius, in 1980 had been a deadly earthquake in the Irpinia region, a cholera outbreak. In 1939 and 1940 the events from World War I, as well as an eruption of Mount Vesuvius. This event is closely watched by all Neapolitans, both religious and non-religious.
Practical Information for Departing
If you want to reach where you are staying by metro, Museo and Piazza Cavour stations are nearby.
You’ve probably heard the remix of this song, ‘Tu vuò fà l’americano,’ first released in 1956.
It’s about a Napoli resident who aspires to mimic the American lifestyle. The song humorously portrays someone who drinks ‘whiskey and soda,’ dances to rock and roll, plays baseball, smokes Camel cigarettes, yet still relies on their parents for financial support.
It satirically comments on the ongoing process of Americanization amid the persistence of traditional ways of life in the post-war years.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqlJwMFtMCs
Practical Tips for Your Naples Walking Tour
- Timing: This tour takes a full day (8-10 hours) at a moderate pace with stops for food, attractions, and occasional rest breaks.
- Footwear: Comfortable walking shoes are essential as Naples streets can be uneven
- Safety: While Naples is much safer than its reputation suggests, remain aware of your surroundings as in any major city
- Language: Basic Italian phrases are appreciated, though many in tourist areas try ro speak English
- Cash: Some smaller establishments may not accept cards, so keep some euros handy
- Photography: Ask permission before photographing locals, especially in residential areas like the Spanish Quarters
- Toilets: There are very few public toilets in Naples. One can be found on Via Tribunali in a narrow street after Pizzeria Sorbillo. Locals typically solve this issue by ordering a coffee at a bar and politely asking to use their facilities—a practice widely accepted throughout the city
